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Practical Methods for Observing and Forecasting Ocean Waves by Means of Wave Spectra and Statistics. (Reprinted 1971)
(U.S. Naval Hydrographic Office, Washington, DC, 1955)
Wave research has made great strides during the past 10 years.
The spectrum of ocean waves was first studied in Britain by G. E. R.
Deacon, N. F. Barber, and F. Ursell. The study of wave spectra was
continued in the ...